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Home » Is your nightly skincare routine ruining your skin? Experts weigh in
Is your nightly skincare routine ruining your skin? Experts weigh in
Lifestyle

Is your nightly skincare routine ruining your skin? Experts weigh in

News RoomBy News RoomMarch 10, 20267 ViewsNo Comments

New York Post may be compensated and/or receive an affiliate commission if you click or buy through our links. Featured pricing is subject to change.

Are you really prepping your skin before bed, or do you just think you are?

If your nighttime skincare routine feels like a circus — layering on whatever serum is trending, dabbing on a mystery mask and chasing it with a swipe of something that smells like a tropical vacation — you might assume you’re doing your skin a favor.

After all, skin repairs itself while we sleep. But according to dermatologists, more is not always more when it comes to nightly skincare, so don’t be fooled by TikTok’s 10-step routines.

What’s recommended What It Does Who It’s Best For Product Recommendation
Hyaluronic Acid Draws water into skin; plumps fine lines Those with dry, dehydrated or mature skin The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5
Retinoid Boosts collagen; improves texture and wrinkles Those with mature skin, an uneven tone or acne Differin Acne Gel
Ceramide Moisturizer Strengthens skin barrier; locks in moisture Those with sensitive or retinol users COSRX Hyaluronic Acid Intensive Cream

What to avoid before bed in your skincare routine

“Rather than specific ingredients, I advise avoiding overly complex routines,” Ahuva Cices, MD, assistant professor at Mount Sinai with expertise in medical and aesthetic dermatology, shared with the New York Post. “Skincare doesn’t have to be so complex; less is more.”

To implement this into your skincare routine, focus on one active ingredient at a time, building out a concise routine, if desired — but no need to go overboard.

Additionally, Dr. Cices noted that layering too many products can lead to unintended interactions and worsen perioral dermatitis or rosacea. “This is particularly true for actives that can irritate the skin,” she added. “It’s not uncommon to see irritant contact dermatitis from overusing actives, especially when multiple actives are combined.”

While there isn’t a universal “forbidden” ingredient that should never touch your face at night, the real issue is whether your skin can tolerate what you’re slathering on it.

“There are no ingredients you should avoid before bed, as long as there are no known sensitivities or allergies to them,” Michele Green, MD, board-certified NYC cosmetic dermatologist with more than 25 years of experience in medical and cosmetic dermatology, told The Post. “Common skin irritants include fragrances, alcohol, parabens, phthalates and sodium lauryl sulfate.”

If you have sensitive skin, it’s best to do a patch test on the inner forearm or wrist for a few days before trying a new product on the face. 

Nighttime skincare products: What to use

So if the goal isn’t to avoid bedtime ingredients across the board, what should you be reaching for instead? Think hydration, repair and renewal.

Hyaluronic acid

Hyaluronic acid sounds intimidating, but it is not an exfoliating acid like AHAs or BHAs. It does not resurface skin.

Hyaluronic acid is a humectant, which means it draws water in. It can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water, making it one of the most effective hydrating ingredients available.

“It’s highly effective and great for hydrating the skin at night,” Dr. Green explained.

While the substance is naturally found in the body, including in the skin and joints, levels decline with age, contributing to dryness and wrinkles. When applied topically, it minimizes the look of fine lines.

It comes in different molecular weights, which affects how it hydrates the skin. Higher molecular weight molecules are larger and sit on the surface, helping to smooth and plump the outer layers, while lower molecular weight forms are smaller and can penetrate more deeply for potentially longer-lasting hydration.

When shopping, look for terms like “low molecular weight” or “multi-molecular weight” in the product description, since many brands don’t list exact numbers on the label. If you want quick surface plumping (for example, under makeup), higher molecular weight may be enough; for deeper, longer-lasting hydration, a multi-weight formula can be a better choice.

For mature skin, layered hydration at night helps minimize the look of fine lines by morning.

Retinol and Retinoids

If you are going to commit to one transformative nighttime ingredient, most dermatologists will point to this category.

“Retinol and retinoids accelerate skin cell turnover and increase collagen production, reducing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, uneven texture, acne scars and enlarged pores,” Dr. Green said.

For those new to retinoids or with sensitive skin, retinol products with the lowest concentration will be best. Retinoids accelerate cell turnover and support collagen production, helping with texture, fine lines and acne. Retinols tend to be gentler than retinals, adapalene (Differin Gel) or tretinoin. Bakuchiol, a plant-derived alternative, offers similar collagen-boosting benefits with less irritation and is considered safe during pregnancy.

Beginners should start using these two to three nights per week, with a pea-sized amount and moisturizer as needed.

Because some retinoids are more potent, people may be cautious about combining them with other active ingredients. Despite common myths, vitamin C and retinol can be used together.

“Vitamin C and retinol do not cancel each other out; rather, they work synergistically to improve signs of aging and rejuvenate the skin,” Green explained. “The myth stems from misconceptions about pH and retinol. Vitamin C is an antioxidant that requires a low pH to remain stable, and some believe that low pH, or high acidity, can deactivate retinol. However, research shows that retinol is not deactivated by low pH and remains effective when used with vitamin C.”

Additionally, vitamin C and tretinoin can be used together in a skincare routine.

“After cleansing the skin, patients can apply vitamin C, then tretinoin and finally a moisturizer,” Green recommended. It’s important to note that both vitamin C and tretinoin are active ingredients, and since tretinoin is a prescription-strength retinoid, some individuals may experience irritation.

“If skin irritation, dryness, or flaking occurs, individuals can use tretinoin less frequently, use a lower strength or switch to an over-the-counter retinol,” she noted.

Ceramides

“Ceramides are lipids that make up 40 percent of your outer skin layer and help create your skin barrier by keeping germs out and locking moisture in,” Green explained.

As we age, ceramide levels drop, contributing to dryness and increased sensitivity. A ceramide-rich moisturizer at night helps prevent moisture loss and supports recovery.

Niacinamide

Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3, reduces redness, regulates oil production, supports the skin barrier and softens the appearance of fine lines. It pairs well with retinol and is generally well tolerated, even by sensitive skin.

“Niacinamide is sort of a do-it-all type of ingredient, which makes it a great addition to most skincare products,” Adarsh Vijay Mudgil, MD, a dual board-certified dermatologist and founder of NYC’s Mudgil Dermatology PC, told The Post.

Peptides

Peptides are short chains of amino acids that act as signaling molecules. They encourage the skin to produce more collagen and can improve firmness over time.

If you’re noticing laxity and thinning skin, peptide-containing creams and serums can provide supportive benefits alongside retinoids.

Vitamin C

Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that helps boost skin cell renewal and enhances brightness.

“When applied at night, vitamin C can help repair damage caused by free radicals and oxidative stress,” Green said.

You do not need to use vitamin C twice daily. Once per day — either in the morning or at night — is sufficient for most people. Morning use offers environmental protection, while nighttime use supports repair.

Nourishing hand creams

Night is prime time for hand repair, especially since frequent washing during the day strips moisture.

A targeted option is the Soft Services Theraplush Hold Overnight Repair Treatment, which is formulated with retinol to create smoother skin over time.

However, if your hands are severely dry, an occlusive such as Vaseline may outperform a luxury lotion. Petroleum jelly seals in moisture and prevents overnight water loss, especially when layered over a basic moisturizer and worn under cotton gloves.

LED masks

LED masks have also entered the bedtime chat.

They use different wavelengths of visible light to target skin concerns. “Red light is believed to stimulate collagen production, while blue light targets acne-causing bacteria,” Green explained.

Some consumers also consider at-home laser devices or microcurrent, such as the Lyma Laser. These use different technology than LED and aim to stimulate collagen more aggressively, though expectations should remain realistic compared to in-office procedures.

Nighttime skincare routine order

Your nighttime routine should not be overly complicated.

A gentle cleanse, one targeted active ingredient, hydration with hyaluronic acid and moisturizer with barrier support from ceramides are often enough.

In the end, nighttime skincare is not about how much you use. It is about choosing ingredients that repair, hydrate and support collagen while you sleep.


This article was written by Victoria McDonnell, New York Post Commerce Journalist & Content Strategist, who has spent countless hours researching, testing hundreds of products and comparing the latest makeup, skincare, hair and beauty items and trends to determine what’s truly worth your hard-earned cash. She evaluates formulas, textures, ingredients and more, in addition to consulting medical and industry experts. Some of Victoria’s latest conquests include testing the best sheet masks on the market, and a rinse-and-repeat review of the best shampoos for all hair types and budgets. Victoria, who received a beauty industry essentials certification from the Fashion Institute of Technology, has been creating shopping guides for the New York Post since 2021 and previously held positions at Insider Reviews and CNN Underscored.


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