Best beginner cameras for astrophotography 2025

When you are looking for the best beginner cameras for astrophotography, it’s crucial to get a camera with a good sensor and reliable ISO performance before anything else. Astrophotography can be a daunting photographic genre to sink your teeth into, so it’s best to keep things simple while you’re learning the basics of astrophotography and honing your skills before you move up to an intermediate camera that can do a few more tricks.

That said, you can’t rely on auto mode for astrophotography as shooting and focus are fully manual, which is why you won’t find many true “beginner” point-and-shoot cameras on this list We’ve also taken lens compatibility into account, ensuring you’ll be able to find an appropriate astro lens for every single one of these cameras.

You can easily spend upwards of $2,000 on the best cameras for astrophotography, but most beginners don’t want to make that much of a financial commitment right off the bat, so we’ve provided options for every budget, including some older DSLR models under $500. Similarly, if you’re a keen stargazer just looking for a simple and affordable camera to mount onto one of the best telescopes, you’ll find some great options here.

The quick list

The best astrophotography cameras for beginners we recommend in 2025

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Best overall

If you’re a beginner buying a camera for astrophotography and you want to go straight for the best option, we think the Nikon Zf is pretty hard to beat. There’s nothing stopping you from splurging on one of the best astrophotography cameras if you want to jump in at the deep end (and can afford it), but if you want great bang for your buck in an entry-level full-frame camera with impressive low-light performance for capturing the night sky, we wholeheartedly recommend the Nikon Zf.

In fact, when it comes to low-light performance, the Nikon Zf can focus down to -10EV, which is better than any other Nikon model. Their flagship Z9 can focus down to -7EV, and the Z8, which we named as the best camera overall for astrophotography, can reach -9EV in starlight mode. That doesn’t necessarily mean the Zf will yield better results, but it does indicate just how capable it is when shooting in the dark.

During our Nikon Fc review, we tested the autofocus at night and it had no problems focusing on a silhouetted suburban skyline. It latched on instantly and accurately with no hunting back and forth, which is not only useful for landscape astrophotography but will also prove useful for wildlife photography at dusk or dawn. Our managing editor, Jase Parnell-Brookes, reviewed the Nikon Zf and is very well versed with Nikon cameras, and they said they found the Zf hard to fault and gave it 4.5/5 stars.

In terms of astro features, it has interval shooting, which is great for timelapses or for capturing multiple frames to stack together, plus its slowest shutter speed is 900 seconds — that’s 15 minutes! Once you get more confident with astrophotography, you can make use of those 15 minutes with one of the best star trackers to get super-long exposures without the risk of star trails.

One caveat worth noting if you’re considering the Nikon Zf as a beginner camera is that it comes with a slight learning curve, particularly if you are totally new to cameras and photography. We love that there’s a button or dial for everything we could possibly wish for, but that could be overwhelming if you’re new to the craft and are looking for more of a “turn it on and press a button” setup.

You’re also skipping Micro Four Thirds and APS-C cameras, going straight into full frame, hence the higher cost. This is advantageous in the long run if you plan on becoming serious about photography, as it means you won’t need to replace any incompatible lenses down the road when you want to upgrade the camera body. However, the downside of going straight to full-frame is that the bodies and lenses are typically more expensive than the APS-C and MFT ones.

We think the Nikon Zf is a fantastic camera that will grow with you as your skill levels grow and you’ll make good use of it for years to come. But if you’re looking for a cheaper alternative, the crop-sensor Nikon Z fc is under $1,000 and the main difference is fewer Megapixels and the Z fc can only focus down to -4.5EV. The Z fc is also 240 g lighter than the Zf. If, however, you want to stick to full-frame but can’t stretch your budget, the Canon EOS R8 is worth considering and is next on this list.

Best lightweight camera

If the weight of your camera is an important factor for you, the Canon EOS R8 is a great contender for your first camera. Weighing just 1.02 lbs / 461 g, it’s Canon’s lightest full-frame model, and it’s the second lightest full-frame camera on the market, only being beaten by the Sigma Fp L, which is double the price.

“But why does weight matter when you shoot astrophotography on a tripod?’” we hear you ask. Weight only becomes a major consideration if you travel with your camera or hike to remote dark sky locations and want to save weight in your camera bag. Plus, a lightweight camera can be favorable if you shoot other photographic styles besides astrophotography, such as landscapes or wildlife photography.

Not only is it compact and light as a feather, but in our Canon EOS R8 review we thought it was intuitive with a simple button layout and was a pleasure to use. If you’re a complete beginner, the layout won’t be too overwhelming and you’ll get to grips with its user-friendly nature in no time.

With its -6.5EV focusing, it’s a dream to use in low light. We were able to push it to around ISO 5,000 before we saw any detrimental noise in our images, and we also found the automatic white balance did a great job of eliminating any yellow or orange tinges when photographing in an urban environment.

Two of the most common complaints with the R8 are that it doesn’t have image stabilization and that it isn’t fully weather-sealed — however, these points are redundant for astrophotography as you’ll be using a tripod and likely won’t be out shooting in inclement weather. These two drawbacks only potentially become a problem if you plan on doing other, more general styles of photography.

One small niggle we had was that the SD card slot is in with the battery, so to change cards, you need to remove the camera from the tripod to access it. This is far from a dealbreaker, though — just make sure you have enough room on your SD card beforehand.

If you want to stick with full-frame but would rather go into the Sony system, the Sony A7C II is only 1.87 oz / 53 g heavier than the Canon EOS R8, although it is around $1,000 more expensive. If you don’t need full-frame and want to save a bit of money but still keep things lightweight, the Nikon Z30 is a cheaper APS-C option and is Nikon’s lightest mirrorless camera at 0.89 lbs / 405 g.

The Canon EOS R7 is also a fantastic APS-C camera, although the Canon crop-sensor lens lineup isn’t ideal for astrophotography — you’ll have to use a third-party lens from Sigma or Rokinon.

Best for growth

After its release in 2018, the Sony A7 III was long considered the weapon of choice for many Sony shooters — it’s fantastic in low light and produces stunning images all around. While it was once perhaps a little out of reach for beginners, as the price has come down over the years, it’s become increasingly accessible, and you’ll be able to find some bargains on the secondhand market for this particular camera. There is an argument that Sony’s A6 range (for example, the Sony A6400) is better suited to beginners, but for beginners who want to jump straight to full-frame and have the budget to do so, we’d say go for the A7 III.

It’s a fairly lightweight camera (compared to other full-frame models) with plenty of customizable controls, although the confusing menu system is likely to prove somewhat of a hurdle for beginners, as we mentioned in our Sony A7 III review. Astro shooting is very intuitive on the A7 III as there are enough control dials on the body to operate the aperture, shutter speed and ISO separately — which many APS-C cameras don’t have.

In terms of ISO capabilities, it’s one of the best Sony models we’ve used, and at the time of its release, there was nothing else like it. We managed to get 13 stops of dynamic range out of the A7 III and were able to use ISO as low as 100 and still get an incredible amount of detail. We did notice it was a victim of the “star-eater” phenomenon, where the noise reduction system mistakes fainter stars for noise or hot pixels and “eats” them, but this shouldn’t be much of a deal-breaker for beginners.

For beginners who want to advance their skills and experiment with calibration frames and stack their astro images, the Sony A7 III has built-in interval shooting to make these frames easier to capture.

Another reason we’ve recommended a full-frame model here is the excellent lens lineup compatible with Sony cameras. The native Sony lenses can be pricey, but they do a fantastic range of wide-angle primes that are amazing for astrophotography. However, if you’re on a budget, Sigma and Tamron do some more affordable lenses that are also very capable.

Best astro features

We were not expecting to be as impressed as we were with the OM-1 Mark II when we reviewed it. If you have the budget, it has some incredible astrophotography features that make it easy for beginners to get to grips with.

The first of these is Live Composite. When shooting star trail images in the traditional way, deciding how long to shoot for and how many images to capture was down to guesswork and trial-and-error, and you never knew how your image would look until after you’d stitched all the photos together on your computer. But Live Composite mode shows you exactly how your image looks in real time on the LCD screen as you’re shooting, so you know exactly when to stop the shutter. Plus, it stitches all the images together into one single image in-camera.

Starry Sky AF is another useful feature for beginners, as nailing sharp manual focus on the stars takes time to master. When we tried it out, we couldn’t believe how accurate it was — it’s a total game-changer for beginner astrophotography. It effortlessly locked onto the stars every single time, even in an urban backyard next to a streetlight.

We also really liked the menu system on the OM-1 Mark II. It was well labeled and easy to navigate, and there’s a short explanation in every setting describing what each setting does, a nice touch that makes it seem much less daunting.

While the OM-1 Mark II is beginner-friendly in terms of its features and ease of use, it’s not so beginner-friendly in terms of price. While we think it’s great value for money when compared to some of the more expensive full-frame models, it is perhaps a bit pricey for a lot of beginners, particularly if you only see photography as a part-time hobby and don’t want to spend much. If this is the case, consider going for the OM-5 — it also has Starry Sky AF and Live Composite and (at the time of writing) costs under $1,000. It does, however, have a 50MP resolution, which will likely produce more noise than the 20.4MP OM-1 Mark II. Alternatively, the OM-D E-M10 Mark IV is under $700 and has Live Composite and a 20MP sensor, but it doesn’t have Starry Sky AF.

Best under $1,000

We’d say $1,000 is a pretty healthy budget for a beginner camera — enough to buy yourself something decent without going overboard. For our money, we’d recommend the new kid on the block, the Nikon Z50 II, as a fantastic camera for beginner astrophotographers. We haven’t reviewed it yet, but looking at its specs on paper and how they compare to the competition, we think it would be a solid choice. Plus, if you can stretch your budget a teeny bit further, you can get the kit lens bundle for just over $1,000.

Nikon’s newer models in particular are known for their ability to see in the dark, and the Z50 II can autofocus down to -9EV, which is one of their best (only beaten by the Nikon Zf at the top of this list), making it an ideal camera for landscape astrophotography. And if you can see yourself progressing to star trackers and telescope mounting down the line, the Z50 II is capable of shutter speeds down to 900 seconds, which is perfect for getting those super-long tracked exposures.

The 20.9MP resolution might seem a little low to many users, but for beginners, and especially for astrophotography, we think it’s fine for what you’ll be using it for. It’s only when you want to upgrade to the more intermediate and professional models that you’ll be looking for a more detailed sensor. In fact, the lower resolution is actually a plus for astrophotography, as it means there’s less noise creeping into your images. Pair that with an expanded ISO range of 100 – 204,800 and you’re onto a winner.

Its main rival, and the camera we would have recommended here before the Z50 II was released, is the Canon EOS R10. That’s still a fantastic camera, and if you prefer Canon over Nikon, then the R10 is the one to go for. But for astro, the Z50 II has a wider ISO range, is weather-sealed (in case you get caught out in the rain or shoot at a sandy beach) and the R10 can only autofocus down to -4EV. The Z50 II would make a better all-rounder, but for travelers who want to save on space and weight, the Canon EOS R10 might be more appealing.

A significant downside to this model, however, is the limited APS-C lens lineup. There are some third-party lenses from Samyang and Viltrox available that would be suitable for astro, but if you plan on focusing solely on astrophotography, we’d recommend going full-frame.

If you do want to skip APS-C and go straight to a full-frame camera to focus (no pun intended) on investing in your lens lineup, you might want to consider going for the older Sony A7 II. It was released all the way back in 2014, so it doesn’t have a lot of the tech that the newer models have, but it’s the only full-frame Sony camera you can buy new for under $1,000, and Sony’s wide-angle, zoom and prime lens lineup for full frames is fantastic.

Best under $750

Another APS-C model here, which comes with the territory in this price bracket, but the Sony A6400 is a very capable little camera which will take perfectly good astrophotos that beginners will be thrilled with. It’s actually a great option if you’re looking for an all-rounder that can shoot multiple styles in addition to astro, as well as being small, lightweight and easy to travel with.

Its 24.2MP sensor won’t produce loads of unsightly noise in your nighttime images. Even though intermediate and pro users would want a bit more resolution, 24.2MP is absolutely fine for beginners. A major advantage Sony has over the competition is that its APS-C lens lineup is actually pretty good for astrophotography. The Sony E 16-55mm f/2.8 G lens is one of the best lenses you can put on a crop-sensor Sony, and they also do a Sony E 11mm f/1.8 prime lens for extra wide-angle shooting — and that lens is under $500.

You can’t adjust all three exposure settings on the body as there are only two custom dials, which means you’ll need to delve into the menu to change the third one. It’s not the end of the world, but it does add an extra step to the whole process and could potentially make it more confusing and less intuitive for beginners.

It does, however, have built-in interval shooting, which is great for an APS-C camera.

Best under $500

If you’re on a super-tight budget or are a keen stargazer and want an affordable camera to attach to your telescope, many astrophotographers still rave about the Canon EOS Rebel T3i (also known as the 600D). Yes, it’s an old camera (released in 2011). Yes, you’ll have to buy a used one as it has been discontinued. And no, it doesn’t have as many features as the newer mirrorless cameras. But if you want a reliable DSLR that still produces fantastic, low-noise images for a couple hundred bucks, it’s still one of the best options out there.

It’s an absolute workhorse of a camera, particularly when used alongside a star tracker and telephoto lens (or even a telescope) to shoot those tracked long exposure images of deep sky objects. With the Rebel T3i, you’re totally back to basics with this DSLR setup, but this makes it fantastic for beginners who want to concentrate on learning the basics (rather than have the camera do it for you). You’ll potentially run the risk of outgrowing it as your skills improve and want something with a bit more power and detail, but as it’s so affordable, any money spent certainly won’t be wasted.

It’s an APS-C camera which typically means a more limited lens lineup, but for the price, this shouldn’t deter you. For deep sky astrophotography, the 1.6x crop factor could actually be a plus when using a full-frame lens. The 18.7MP sensor will still produce high quality images without the noise of a higher resolution camera.

Comparison

Our expert consultants

FAQs

What do I need to look for in an astrophotography camera?

Astrophotography cameras need to be able to handle dark conditions without producing too much noise. We asked award-winning astrophotographer Josh Dury, who told us:

“If you have existing camera equipment, there is no need to vouch for the latest photographic equipment. I am an advocate of inspiring others to have a go at taking photographs of the stars with the equipment that is readily available to them. If you wish to take this to the next level, then there are different options. Low-light adapted cameras are great examples for dealing with lower ISO values, coupled with the latest camera-lens technology, such as the SIgma 14mm F/1.4 DG DN Art and 15mm F/1.4 Art DG DN Diagonal Fisheye, they are game changers for light gathering capability, to boost the signal to noise ratio of images.”

What is the “500 rule”?

The “500 rule” is what astrophotographers use to determine what shutter speed to use when shooting images of the night sky. The shutter speed needed depends on the size of your camera’s sensor, and the focal length of your lens. If your shutter speed is too slow, then the stars won’t be sharp and they’ll start to trail.

Full-frame cameras use the 500 rule, whereas APS-C (crop sensors) use 300 and Micro Four Thirds use 250.

For example, say you’re using a full-frame camera with a 20mm lens. Take 500 and divide it by the focal length (20mm) and that gives you a shutter speed of 25 seconds before the stars begin to trail.

What is the easiest astrophotography target?

Most beginners start by taking photographs of the moon. Josh Dury told us:

“The most obvious target for beginners would be the moon. Our celestial neighbor is continually changing in appearance. From the crescent to fuller phases, there are always new surface features to look out for.”

If you’re lucky enough to live in the right area, you could also try photographing the northern lights.

What ISO is best for astrophotography?

Josh Dury told Live Science:

“There is no best ISO. It depends on the subject you are photographing and the time within the month, light pollution and weather. Depending on how dark the sky is, anywhere from ISO 1000 to 2000 is appropriate, but can vary to lower ISO if the shooting location is at the mercy of artificial light.”

If you’re unsure which ISO to use, take a few test shots and adjust your ISO levels as necessary. You’ll soon learn what ISO values your camera can handle and where the noise levels start to become too much.

What are the advantages of full-frame over APS-C?

We asked Josh Dury, award-winning astrophotographer, who told us:

“Resolution. Crop sensors — yes, they are more affordable, but we need resolution when taking images at night, as with any other photographic medium. I would advocate for full-frame but understand this is entirely dependent on photographers’ aspirations and budget.”

Should astrophotography be JPEG or RAW?

Astrophotography should always be shot in RAW format. RAW images capture more data than JPEG and you’re able to edit RAW images non-destructively, which is essential for astrophotography.

What lens do I need for astrophotography?

Wide-angle prime lenses are the best for astrophotography, but you can use zoom lenses depending on their focal length and aperture.

For wide-angle landscapes and milky way shots, the shorter the focal length, the better. This lets more light into the sensor and gives you more foreground and sky in your final image. For moon photography or deep sky imaging with a star tracker, longer telephoto lenses can be used.

Whatever lens you use, it needs to be capable of apertures of f/2.8 or lower. Prime lenses are often around f/1.8, which is fantastic. Typically, the kit lenses that come with cameras don’t even have an aperture of around f/3.5, so we’d recommend getting the camera body and lens separately to ensure your lens can shoot astrophotography.

What does ‘-9EV’ mean?

Josh Dury said: “Exposure Value (EV) is a numerical figure that reflects the indication of a camera shutter speed and aperture. It’s a combination of camera settings that obtain the same value, or figure.”

Essentially, the lower the EV number a camera is capable of, the better it is when shooting in the dark.

Do I need to stack my astrophotography images?

Seasoned astrophotographers often stack their astro images, using anywhere from five to 500 frames! But beginners don’t need to worry about that when first starting out.

Josh Dury said: “Stacking is a form of composite image. As long as this is justified in the description of the image, stacking can yield a wealth of image data. As discussed above, higher ISO’s are used and our ‘rushes’ can appear ‘grainy’. Stacking boosts the signal-to-noise ratio (SNR) of our images and light frames are only needed — 5 or so to obtain adequate results.”

What settings are best for astrophotography?

Your camera needs to be in manual mode, often labelled as ‘M’ on the mode dial, so you can adjust your ISO, shutter speed and aperture independently.

Your lens also needs to be set to manual focus using the switch on the lens barrel, so you can manually focus on the stars or moon.

How we tested the best beginner cameras for astrophotography

When testing the best astrophotography cameras for beginners, we focus on key factors such as low-light sensitivity, ISO performance and noise, dynamic range, sensor quality and ease of use.

Our reviews are conducted either by our expert staff or freelance contributors who have a wealth of photography knowledge, many of whom can directly compare certain models to others they have tested. We test the cameras under various light conditions from dark sky sites to urban areas to account for light pollution, and we capture images at a range of ISO values to evaluate the camera’s noise performance. We always endeavor to test the cameras during a new or crescent moon where possible.

Although our reviewers are advanced photographers, we always assess each camera from a beginner’s perspective (after all, we were all beginners once!) in regards to customization, usability and how user-friendly the camera is for someone starting from scratch.