From Tressage to Panthère, here are the captivating stories behind four of Cartier’s most celebrated timepieces.
Tressage
Once again, Cartier puts its signature spin on the watch world. The company has added a quartet of timepieces to Tressage, its sculptural jewelry collection introduced in 2023 and named after the French word for braiding.
The sinuous new designs by Marie-Laure Cérède, creative director of jewelry and watchmaking, feature two spiraling yellow gold gadroons flanking a rectangular dial.
The watch is a study in contrasts: Harmonious curves are juxtaposed with straight lines, while smooth metal alternates with pavé and snow-set diamonds or a sapphire gradient on the three gem-encrusted models.
“For this creation, we exaggerated and amplified the classic attributes of a watch,” says Cérède. “By enlarging and elongating the brancards, we sculpted a voluptuous twist in volume. Neither a bangle nor a leather strap, Tressage continues to explore that unique and atypical territory so dear to Cartier — watches of a third kind, a true fusion of watchmaking and jewelry.”
Tank
More than a century old, the enduringly popular Cartier Tank stands the test of time. Beloved by both men and women, it has been worn by a pantheon of tastemakers, from Cary Grant and Humphrey Bogart to Angelina Jolie, along with Michelle Obama and Princess Diana.
Created in 1917 by Louis Cartier, the watch’s design reflected the view from above of a World War I tank, with a rail-track minute counter, Roman numerals and a blue cabochon. That purity of line lends itself to myriad iterations.
Today, variations include the Tank Louis Cartier (an Art Deco masterpiece), the Tank Française (with its seamless chain-link bracelet), the Tank Cintrée Skeleton (its slim case reveals a visible movement), the Tank Américaine mini (boldly elongated but sized down to hug the wrist) and the Tank Louis Cartier (a larger version powered by a mechanical Manufacture movement with automatic winding). There’s endless temptation for Tank enthusiasts.
Santos de Cartier
Winging its way through 120 years of horological history, the Santos de Cartier remains top flight. The first modern wristwatch was developed in 1904 by Louis Cartier for his friend, Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, after the latter complained he had trouble checking the time on his pocket watch while flying. Practical, adventurous and ultra-legible, it featured a geometric dial, curved horns and exposed screws on a square bezel.
Cartier frequently reengineers its references, clearing Santos models for takeoff in sizes from small to extra large, with innovations like the QuickSwitch interchangeable strap system and SmartLink, which allows users to easily adjust the length of the bracelet without using tools.
Continuing full throttle, the maison has released a “petit modèle” in gold, steel or mixed metal with a lustrous sunray-effect dial, high autonomy quartz movement and a choice of metal bracelet or leather strap. Sky’s the limit.
Panthère de Cartier
The Panthère has been prowling Cartier since 1914, when the house’s then-director of bags, accessories and objects, Jeanne Toussaint, designed her first feline wristwatch. Spotted like her panther fur coat, the timepiece was studded with diamonds and onyx stones.
Through the decades, the animal motif reappeared on watches, jewelry and accessories, but it wasn’t until 1983 that the maison unveiled its Panthère de Cartier line of quartz jewelry watches. With slinky gold-link bracelets and rounded-corner square cases, they fit perfectly into the glamorous “Dynasty” decade. Madonna, Gwyneth Paltrow and Pierce Brosnan were photographed in their iconic Panthères, and Charlie Sheen’s stockbroker character Bud Fox in “Wall Street” invested in a gold one.
Today’s collection features dozens of models, including mixed metal, double- and triple-loop bracelets, cuffs and now the Panthère Jewelry watch: a “Toi & Moi” bracelet with the stealthy cat on one side and a diamond-ringed timepiece on the other. Fiercely chic.
All at London Jewelers, 2118 Northern Blvd., Manhasset, LI
