From Reflection to Panthère, here are the captivating stories behind four of Cartier’s most celebrated timepieces.
Reflection de Cartier
Cartier has an enchanting new cuff. After 3,000 hours of development, last month the company debuted its latest wonder: An openwork bangle with a watch embedded in one end and reflected on the other’s glossy surface, so the time is also shown in reverse.
All five of the resolutely modern jewelry watches are composed of 95 sculpted elements and display the brand’s signature Roman numbers and sword hands on their dials. The versatile yellow-gold and rose-gold models can be worn solo or stacked with other bracelets.
Clad in gems, the three high-jewelry variations are gala-ready. There’s an icy all-white bracelet pavéd with diamonds, along with a peacock-motif lacquered version embellished with chrysoprases, obsidian, emeralds, Paraíba tourmalines and diamonds.
A different array of vivid colors is showcased in the opal, amethyst, spessartite garnet, tiger eye and diamond iteration. Made with savoir-faire, these watches mirror glamour.
Santos de Cartier
Reaching new heights through 120 years of horological history, the Santos de Cartier remains top flight. The first modern wristwatch was developed in 1904 by Louis Cartier for his friend, Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, after the latter complained he had trouble checking the time on his pocket watch while flying.
Practical, adventurous and ultra-legible, it featured a geometric dial, curved horns and exposed screws on a square bezel. Cartier frequently reengineers its references, clearing Santos models for takeoff in sizes from small to extra large, with innovations like the QuickSwitch interchangeable strap system and SmartLink, which allows users to easily adjust the length of the bracelet without tools.
Continuing full throttle, in 2009 the maison released its first-ever skeleton variation in its Santos collection. The patented 9611 MC caliber boasts bridges sculpted in the shape of Roman numerals, so they help present the time. Sky’s the limit.
Tank
More than a century old, the enduringly popular Cartier Tank stands the test of time. Beloved by both men and women, it has been worn by a pantheon of tastemakers, from Cary Grant and Humphrey Bogart to Angelina Jolie, along with Meghan Markle, Michelle Obama and Princess Diana.
Created in 1917 by Louis Cartier, the watch’s design reflected the view from above of a World War I tank, with a rail-track minute counter, Roman numerals and a blue cabochon. That purity of line lends itself to myriad iterations.
Today, variations include the Tank Louis Cartier (an Art Deco masterpiece), the Tank Française (with its seamless chain-link bracelet), the Tank Cintrée Skeleton (its slim case reveals a visible movement) and the Tank Américaine mini (boldly elongated but sized down to hug the wrist). There’s endless temptation for Tank enthusiasts.
Panthère de Cartier
The Panthère has been prowling around Cartier since 1914, when the house’s then-director of bags, accessories and objects, Jeanne Toussaint, designed her first feline wristwatch. Spotted like her panther fur coat, the timepiece was studded with diamonds and onyx stones.
Through the decades, the animal motif reappeared on watches, jewelry and accessories, but it wasn’t until 1983 that the maison unveiled its Panthère de Cartier line of quartz jewelry watches. With slinky gold-link bracelets and rounded-corner square cases, they fit perfectly into the glamorous “Dynasty” decade.
Madonna, Gwyneth Paltrow, Jane Fonda, Pierce Brosnan and Keith Richards were all photographed in their iconic Panthères, and Charlie Sheen’s stockbroker character Bud Fox in “Wall Street” invested in a gold one when he started making money.
Forever evolving, today’s collection features dozens of models, including mixed metal, double- and triple-loop bracelets, cuff, patterned lacquer and diamond-encrusted styles. Absolutely fierce.
All at London Jewelers, 1988 Northern Blvd., Manhasset, LI
